Road Trips - Crisscrossing Missouri


Article Tags:

family activities , Family Fun , outdoors , museums , Tours , Mark Twain , Lake of the Ozarks
Author: John Drake Robinson

VisitMO editor’s note: This is an article by John Drake Robinson (J.R.). John is a past director of the Missouri Division of Tourism. J.R. has driven every mile of every road on Missouri's highway map and written two books about the experiences. For details and links to his blog, and to order his books, go to



It was 10 p.m.  My car, thirsty for petrol, urged me to exit the Interstate and find fuel. Just ahead, Kingdom City waited with the tools to fill my tank. And my stomach.

Kingdom City isn't really a city. Heck, the town's population barely reaches into three digits. But it shares a common trait with more famous small towns like Branson and Lake Ozark: tens of thousands of travelers touch it daily.

Many of Kingdom City's residents (the sign says121) work to keep commerce and tourism flowing, with food and fuel and tourist information at each corner of the exit.

My car gravitated toward a truck stop diner and rolled into the parking lot. The lot was a labyrinth of shallow potholes filled with fresh water. A monstrous thunderstorm had just fled the scene, churning east down the highway. As I filled my car's tank with the corn liquor she loves, the lightning flashes guided the storm away, into the darkness.

My nose led me to the warm glow of the truck stop diner, which, even at 10 p.m., bustled with energy. Inside, every face I saw was “on the road.”

Quietly, I observed truckers and travelers taking a break. Families flowed in and out of this fuel center, this nerve center, this pit stop.  The wall behind the service counter bore a back-lit photo of the Gateway Arch . . . and Mark Twain Lake . . . and the State Capitol.

A family entered the main door, engaged in a lively debate. Mom and dad wanted to head to the Lake of the Ozarks, two hours southwest. The kids–a brother and sister–begged to travel to the land of childhood adventure in Hannibal – a two-hour drive in the opposite direction. The children were close enough in age that I guessed they might be twins, about Tom Sawyer's age and attitude.

I wanted to offer a suggestion, but I stayed silent. Instead, I filed through the food line, and piled my plate like a buffet professional. I sat down in a booth with a huge pile of so many different foods that it can only be compared to Grandma's dinner table. The family debate followed me through the line and settled into a neighboring booth.

The young boy was adamant: “I've got to see Mark Twain Cave.”

“There are caves around the lake, too,” Mom reasoned. “And swimming and boating...and golf!” She smiled at her husband.

The young girl rolled her eyes. She caught me smiling as I watched them out of the corner of my eye. “Well, what would you do?” She drew me into the debate, challenging me with all the unfiltered frankness of an eighth grader.

With a sympathetic shrug to mom and dad, I answered. “I'd stay an extra day, and hit 'em both.”

Silence. I took another bite of broccoli. My eyes scoured the buffet table for a to-go box. The four family members looked at each other to size up the battle lines.

“Works for me,” Dad finally said. Mom looked relieved. The daughter gave me a thumbs up sign. I relaxed and shoveled into my baked beans.

“So if you had one day, what would you see in Hannibal?” Dad put me on the spot.

That was easy. “Climb Cardiff Hill to the lighthouse and get a bird's eye view of Mark Twain's Mississippi,” I said. “Check out the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum; ride the Mark Twain Riverboat. I'd definitely go to Planter's Barn Theater to see actor Richard Garey in the “Mark Twain Himself” show. Downriver on Route 79, drive up to Lover's Leap for another great panorama. But I also think you have a date with Mark Twain Cave . . .”

“And the Lake of the Ozarks?” Mom asked me.

“You could play a different golf course every day for two weeks, and still not touch 'em all,” I shrugged. I started to point to a brochure rack near the truck stop entrance; but before I said a word, I changed my approach.

“Anybody have Internet connection?” They laughed. Everybody flashed their iPhones and iPods, and began Googling, which led them to and and

For the next half hour, eight thumbs danced on electronic devices, with only an occasional “Wow!”

I ate in peace.

I glanced at my watch. It was 10:37; time to go home. I rose and turned to leave. “Have fun!” I offered to the family of dancing thumbs. I think I saw Dad nod in response.

  • Travel with J.R. on his fascinating, educational and often comical journey along the highways, byways and side roads of Missouri. His books, "A Road Trip into America's Hidden Heart" and "Coastal Missouri: Driving on the Edge of Wild," are available at most book stores, on John's website, and online by searching "John Drake Robinson" at and
  • For more things to do, sights to see and adventures to experience in Missouri, spend some time on, Missouri’s only official tourism website.

  Cardiff Hill Park Lighthouse and Statues
This park, with its panoramic view of Hannibal and the Mississippi River, is reached by 244 stairs which ...

  Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum
Discover how a young boy growing up in the small village of Hannibal became one of the world's most ...

  Mark Twain Riverboat
See Hannibal, the famous river town, from the boat that bears the name of Hannibal's most famous citizen. The ...

  Mark Twain Himself Show
Actor Richard Garey's "Mark Twain Himself" stage show brings back the famous Mark Twain shows of more ...

  Mark Twain Cave Complex
This is the cave author Mark Twain described in five of his books. The cave was first shown in 1886. ...

  The Lake of the Ozarks
Missouri's most popular lake destination features more than 1,100 miles of shoreline – that’s ...